Draped dress

Par franču modes dizaineru Polu Puarē (1879 – 1944) parasti izsakās kā par cilvēku, kas “atbrīvojis sievietes no korsetēm” (tā nav gluži patiesība un katrā ziņā viņš to neizdarīja viens), viens no tērpu stiliem, ko Puarē ienesa tā laika modes pasaulē bija drapērijas (drapēšana – tehnika, kuru pielietojot nav jāizmanto piegreiztnes, tā vietā audumu saspraužot un piegriežot pa taisno uz manekena vai cilvēka). Puarē parādīja, ka ir iepējams radīt tērpu izvairoties no tradicionālajām drēbniecības tehnikām, kā tas bija iepriekš. Lai gan šī kleita tika šūta pielāgojot komerciālo piegrieztni, kleitas augstā jostas vieta, drapējums un apkārt sienamā josta saskan ar 20.gs. sākuma ampīra stila tērpiem, un kad pirmo reizi ieraudzīju šo piegrieztni, man prātā ienāca 1908 Les Robes de Paul Poiret.
Although French fashion designer Paul Poiret (1879 – 1944) is usually refered to as a person who “freed women from the corsets” (although it wasn’t quite true and he definitely didn’t do it alone), among other clothing styles he also invented entirely new technique – draping (The process of cutting, pinning, slashing, and marking muslin or fabric in developing a pattern or design on the model form or live figure), omitting the tailoring as it was done before. Although this dress was made with premade pattern, it’s draping technique, the high waist line and wrap around belt is consistent with the beginning of the 20th century when empire style waistline was in style and when I first saw this pattern it made me think of Les Robes de Paul Poiret in 1908.

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