Norfolk jacket

Žakete tapusi pēc 19.gs. Norfolk žaketes parauga – vīriešu žakete, kas kādreiz bijusi neatņemama džentlmeņu garderobes sastāvdaļa. Žaketes pirmsākumi meklējami 1859./1860. gadā, kad tā bija  brīvprātīgo kustības Rifle Corps uniforma. 1860. gados žakete tika adaptēta medībām. Sākotnēji to sauca par “Norfolkas kreklu”, kas attiecīgi tā laika etiķetei bija strikti velkams tikai aktivitātēm laukos. Sportam, atpūtai brīvā dabā un dažādiem āra vaļaspriekiem kļūstot populārākiem, 1870.-ajos un 1880.-ajos gados arī Norfolkas žaketes popularitāte pieauga un tā kļuva “pieņemams” apģērba gabals arī ārpus lauku teritorijām. “It īpaši piemērota riteņbraukšanai, biznesam, makšķerēšanai, atpūtai un pārgājienos tīrelī, ceļošanai” (Tailor and Cutter, 1888, aprīļa izdevums). 1890. gados sabiedrības uzskatiem kļūstot relaksētākiem, pat pilsētas ielās varēja sastapt gados jaunākus vīriešus tērpušos Norfolkas žaketē. Šī veida žakete parasti tika darināta no vilnas auduma, tvīda un visbiežāk tika vilkta kopā ar kuplām īsbiksēm (knickerbockers) un brīva stila cepuri. Žaketes atpazīstamības zīmes vienmēr ir ieloce centrā uz muguras un divas ieloces priekšdaļā, kā arī atsevišķi velkama josta un dziļas kabatas.
This jacket is based on the Norfolk jacket – a men’s jacket style that once was important item in a gentleman’s wardrobe. It was originally worn by the Rifle Corps in the Volunteer Movement of 1859-1860 and was adapted for shooting costume during the 1860’s. It was initially known as the ‘Norfolk shirt’ and was at first strictly reserved for country wear. With the growth in leisure activities and sporting pursuits during the 1870’s and 1880’s the Norfolk jacket became acceptable for any form of outdoor exercise, ‘being especially suited for bicycling, business, fishing, pleasuring, and the moorland’ (Tailor and Cutter, April 1888). By the 1890’s conventions had become so relaxed that smart young men were seen wearing Norfolk jackets even in the city. The Norfolk jacket was often made of Harris tweed and homespun. It was frequently teamed up with matching knickerbockers and a soft cap such as a deerstalker. Its distinctive features were a box pleat at the center back and another passing down each forepart. It also had a belt made of the same material.
/Victoria & Albert Museum, Textiles and Fashion collection/

 

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