Slip dress

Parasti ar vārdu kombinē un apakšsvārki (angļu val. slip) tiek apzīmēts apakšveļas veids, kas velkams zem svārkiem, kleitas vai kostīma. Visbiežāk kombinē un apakšsvārki tiek vilkti kā vidusslānis starp apakšveļu un apģērbu, lai apģērbam piešķirtu labāku kritumu, siluetu un nodrošinātu diskrētumu. Mūsdienās, lai apzīmētu šim nolūkam paradzētu veļu, tiek lietoti divi termini – apakšsvārki (no vidukļa daļas uz leju) un kombinē (ar šaurām plecu lencītēm). Kombinē kļuva populārs ienākot 20. gs. 20. gadu modei, un tolaik atsevišķie apakšsvārki no modes izgāja. 1920. gadu kombinē tika darināti no mīksta zīda, zīda satīna, tie bija necaurspīdīgi un kleitas tiem viegli slīdēja pāri. 1940-ajos un 50-ajos gados populāri kļuva neilona kombinē, bet jau 1960. gados modē bija visu iespējamo krāsu un rakstu kombinē, pat puķaini. 1970. gados kombinē sāka iziet no modes, lai atkal atgrieztos 1990. gadu sākumā, bet nu jau kā daļa no “underwear as outerwear” (apakšveļa kā virsdrēbes) fenomena. “Pētot modes vēsturi atklājas, ka tai ir vispārēja tendence kļūt neformālai; silueti un tērpi, kas vienā laikmetā tiek uzskatīti par apakšveļu, dažas paaudzes vēlāk, jau citā laikmetā, parādās kā pieklājīgi izejamie tērpi.” (Fashion plates. 150 years of style. A. Calahan, K.T. Cannell, Yale University Press, 2015)
* Ja vēlies šāda veida kleitu uzšūt sev pati, dažas idejas, kur meklēt piegrieztni, vari atrast manā blogā ŠEIT
Traditionally we understand a slip to be a type undergarment that is worn under the dress or skirt. Usually it is a middle layer between a set of underwear and outerwear. Nowadays there are two types of slips – the ones that hang from the shoulders (full slips) and the ones that start from the waist (waist-slips or half slips). From the early 1920’s waist slips disappeared and full slips became fashionable. These slips were made from soft silk satin and weren’t see through, allowing dresses to glide over them. In 1940’s and 50’s nylon slips got popular and by the 1960’s slips were produced in all possible colors, even with floral print designs. They got less popular during the 1970’s, only to reappear in fashion in early 1990’s again as part of the ‘underwear as outerwear’ phenomenon. “The study of fashion history reveals a general compulsion toward informality; silhouettes and garments commonly considered undergarments in one era often reappear as clothing proper within the time span of a few generations.” (Fashion plates. 150 years of style. A. Calahan, K.T. Cannell, Yale University Press, 2015)
*You can read where to get some DIY patterns on my blog HERE 
A.Herbin & Co_1929_slip_underthedress_metmuseum

Alice Herbin & Company, 1929, “This refined French dress is an example of the 20’s fashion change. Its construction is quite complex, with the slip, dress and overdress, delicate materials and detailed embroidery. This piece is a wonderful expression of the return to femininity.” Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art. 

 

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